The material of the stem is not that strong. If you've got room I suppose you could cut a slot that fits the width of the jaw of the visegrips. I can provide higher resolution pics directly if you provide an e-addr. If I did have access then I would have just cut the whole valve out and plumbed in a new, modern, safety shower valve.įeel free to ask for clarifications. I did not have access to the backside of the valve (old home lathe plaster finished wall etc. I don't think heat is the answer as the problem is orings - not the usual seized metal on metal threads that can sometimes be unloosed by the differential expansion of heating. I don't see how notches would help - and you certainly don't want to cobber up the flutes on the end of the stem that fits into the handle.Ģ. IF you are suggesting that you placed the visegrips next to the bonnet nut - and then tried to force outward by unthreading the bonnet net - well then you're right that, in theory, would work as well - but as you will see, my valve assembly laid well behind the finished stone tile surface and I did not have access to place the visegrips against the bonnet nut in their proper perpendicular orientation even using some sort of spacer, there would not be enough access to turn the bonnet nut with force while such visegrips were in place.ġ. Unfortunately the pics got placed in the album in reverse order and I can't see a simple way to change the order in the album - it's pretty obvious -just start with the last pic #13, and hit "prev" instead of "next". Click on "View hauch's album" Let me know if folks have access to this. Ok - I have placed pics and comments in the captions in an album in my account album, I guess. Thus I was thinking I might get better 'clamping force' with a drill chuck, (preferably a 4or more jaw chuck) - but I haven't found a spare 1/2" or larger chuck to try this diverter stem removal using hkstroud's suggested puller: Thus, I was hoping to break the whole thing loose, clean off the corrosion, and maybe find new o-rings. I'm quite afraid of damaging the stem / or worse snapping it off, as I am less than sure that I can obtain a replacement (it's no longer made). The fluted grooves make it really hard to get a super firm grip. The vise grips just slid down the soft, brass, and (damn it) *fluted* stem and started to gouge it. I'm not sure I'll have enough room to get an open end wrench on it, it may be recessed behind the tile a tiny bit.Ģ) I had previously clamped a visegrips on the stem (farther out) and pulled with quite a bit of force and didn't even come close to budging it. I have to say, I am less than hopeful though, as:ġ) I don't remember for sure but I don't think that the bonnet nut sits proud of the surrounding tile work, i.e. I had given up on this over a year ago (as the thread suggests) however I might give this a try. Your suggestion would be a good way to apply outward axial force to that stem in a controlled leveraged manner. That's an interesting and creative suggestion, thanks. Thanks - and I can send you pictures of what your valve body looks like under all that mortar if you're interested. Would love to hear if you were successful in removing yours - and if so where you found a replacement stem to purchase (or if you just replaced the or reply here. Get that clamped onto the stem, put some wood against the wall and then use two pry bars to lever it out. My next thought is to try to get some sort of chuck - like the chuck that holds a drill bit on a power drill - or that holds a part on a machinist's lathe. I tried locking a vise grips on the stem and using a slide hammer with a hook - no go. I have tried CLR/Lime-a-way down the shower pipe. I have this exact same stuck diverter valve. So did you get this Harden diverter valve stem out or did you just bail and bust that thing out of there and replace the whole valve body? (I realize this is a stale three year old thread - but I can't seem to private message on this board - so I hope someone will see this and respond)
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